Lucca

Lucca is the great secret of northern Tuscany — better preserved than Siena, more intimate than Florence, and entirely within reach of Versilia by a 25-minute train. The city is encircled by its original Renaissance walls, built between 1500 and 1650 and surviving intact over 4km — the only Renaissance city walls in Italy still complete. They now form a celebrated tree-lined promenade above the rooftops, and cycling or walking the full circuit is one of Italy's great urban pleasures. Inside the walls, Lucca is a perfectly preserved medieval city of towers, Romanesque churches, and narrow alleys. The Piazza Anfiteatro was built within the ellipse of a Roman amphitheatre — the house facades follow the exact curve of the ancient stadium, creating one of Italy's most extraordinary piazzas. The Guinigi Tower, topped with holm oaks growing from its summit, is the city's great symbol. Lucca was the birthplace of Giacomo Puccini — his house is a museum and a pilgrimage for opera lovers worldwide. The local buccellato (anise bread ring) is the essential specialty you'll find in every bakery. Wednesday and Saturday markets around San Michele are superb.