La Spezia

La Spezia is the train and ferry hub for the Cinque Terre and the entire Gulf of Poets. Italy's most important naval base occupies the extraordinary natural harbour, and the Naval Museum is one of the finest in the country — Italian maritime history from ancient Rome through World War II. The caruggi (alleys) of the old centre are authentic Ligurian urban life far removed from tourist Versilia — excellent seafood trattorias, market stalls, and local bars. The covered municipal market (Mercato del Carmine) sells the best mussels in Italy — cultivated in the gulf's sheltered waters. Promenade Morin along the harbour is the departure point for all Cinque Terre ferries and pleasant in the evening.