Garfagnana Valley

The Garfagnana is one of Tuscany's most beautiful and least-visited regions — a long, dramatic valley between the Apuan Alps and the Apennines, following the Serchio River north from Lucca. Medieval hilltop fortresses, ancient chestnut forests, rushing mountain streams, and a sequence of extraordinary small towns make this a revelation for anyone who thought they knew Tuscany. Barga is the valley's greatest town: a perfectly preserved medieval hill town with a Romanesque cathedral, extraordinary panoramic views, and a significant Scottish community (many Garfagnana emigrants went to Scotland in the early 20th century — their descendants return annually). The Rocca di Castelnuovo, seat of Ariosto (the Renaissance poet) when he was Governor of the Garfagnana, is extraordinary. Castelvecchio Pascoli, a hamlet above Barga, was the retreat of Giovanni Pascoli — his villa and garden are preserved exactly as he left them. The farro (emmer wheat), chestnut flour, and testaroli of the Garfagnana are unique and extraordinary.